Surfing has been hard this week. The east coast has been plagued by really strong rip currents- it's been on the news and I' ve been getting thrown around and beat up by them. My knees are all bruised from failed attempts at getting up and my shins are all scuffed apart from wipeouts!
Even so, in a few minutes I'm going to get back out there and give it another shot. It's addictive.
We are having unbelievable weather here, but 5 miles inland all the way home there is flooding rains. We haven't had any rain. I think the wind is keeping the rains away from us. Bad weather is inevitable but there are still many things to do.
I havn't thought once about wildlife. I'm in this state of denial that there are no sharks here in this part of the Atlantic ocean-- somehow I believe this is very wrong, but it makes me less frightened. Every morning around 9:00 am, the porpoises run from South to North and then they return at about 5:00 pm every evening. So very predictable.
Ben, Jack and Tom love the beach. We all were out all day yesterday although Tom is too frightened to go swimming, which is very bothersome for a 42 yr old man. The water is a bit chilly I'll admit and most of my swimming has been with a wetsuit-- Even so, I can't wait to get out there again.
FIVE FAVORITE THINGS:
1. 7/11 Coffee
2. sunny skies
3. big waves
4. knees that still kindof work
5. that whole surfing attitude- very amusing.
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